Just in - Road Restaurant Reviews!

As we pull out of the driveway at the beginning of a tour, Paul and I wave goodbye to our home, our family, our pets, and our appetites. Long haulers with little downtime, we frequently gamble on finding a good meal in an unfamiliar town, and when we lose, we lose big. However, we've had a bumper crop of fine dining experiences on this most recent tour of the southeast, thanks to some internet research and a plethora of online customer reviews. After reading so many of these reviews, I was inspired to try my hand at the genre and spread the word to other hungry road warriors. This is a work in progress; I'll keep adding to it until it's done and we're back at our own kitchen table.

Ratings:

5 doggie bags: Excellent! The best of its kind! Book your travel through this city just to eat here! But read the review carefully to determine if this is the dining experience you're looking for.
4 doggie bags: The same as 5, but with room for improvement
3 doggie bags: A good bet for the area
2 doggie bags: It won't kill you.
1 doggie bag: It might.


Rein's Deli - Vernon, CT

A traveling northeasterner's home away from home. Styled as a New York Deli but run by about as Jewish a crew as you'd find at any Mountain Top location in Amish Country. Still, Rein's delivers classic Rubens, Rachels, kreplach soup, fresh bagels and all kinds lox, plus an irresistible array of candies, chips, frozen desserts, and gourmet condiments. Great for families and road musicians on the well-worn trail between Boston and New York. Look for Nancy at the take-out counter and tell her Paul and Annie say Hi! We'll be back soon. Doggie Bags: 5 out of 5!

It's About Thyme - Culpeper, VA

Homestyle Northern Italian food ranging from delectable gourmet salads with roquefort-raspberry dressing to a pan-simmered pot roast bathed in stewed tomatoes that will make you sing Ave Maria, prepared by a certified Cordon Bleu chef. Need I say more? About the best place to eat in the entire state. Doggie Bags: 5 out of 5!

The Family Wash - Nashville, TN

Come for the Shepherd's Pie, stay for the live music. Or the other way around. We stopped by Cole Slivka's Tuesday open mic on our first visit to the Music City. This ain't the Ryman, folks. It's a former laundromat hunkered down by the tracks on the north side of town. A larger version of the Cantab in Cambridge, the Wash is brimming with young daters and musicians enjoying beer, wine, and surprisingly tasty comfort food. The shepherd's pie was freshly prepared and piping hot. Our friend Ted ordered a roast half chicken on garlic mashed, which looked and smelled great. Jamie and the whole staff will treat you like family, only better. Lively, noisy, a great place to make and meet friends. Doggie Bags: 3.5 out of 5

Woodfire Grill - Atlanta, GA

A trip to Atlanta to play Blind Willie's wouldn't be complete without a visit to nearby Cheshire Bridge Road. There the eager tourist can view the Cheshire Bridge Motel where Blind Willie's used to house its visiting bands, and the even more eager tourist can indulge in visiting the large number of sex shops and other seedy enterprises that make up most of the neighborhood's trade. Somehow thriving in the midst of this turpitude, like flowers in a junkyard, two world-class restaurants, Woodfire Grill and Nakato, have sprouted side-by-side atop a small rise. Both restaurants are fronted by two-man crews of energetic young valet parking attendants who must be raiding Johnny Cash's old stash to keep pace with the crush of arriving and departing customers.
Woodfire's reputation rests on its use of fresh, organic and locally produced ingredients and a menu that changes daily. We particularly enjoyed the diverse selection of wines and the high-quality service, including frequent cleaning of the table between courses and immediate replacement of any used or dropped silverware. "Small Plate" appetizers included Kumomoto Oysters, a personal weakness of mine, and smoky roasted little neck clams. I had a pan-roasted fish that was perfect. Paul ordered a ribeye which was just OK and more than a little overpriced. It's hard to justify gourmet labels and prices for grilled steak, which is the football-watching, beer-can-tossing macho guy's haute cuisine. But the sauteed greens, a deceptively simple preparation, were flavorfully complex and as deliciously bitter as anything penned by Dorothy Parker.* Doggie Bags: 4.5 out of 5

*Ms. Parker, responsible for such gems as "Scratch a lover, and find a foe," also generated what could be our own motto: "Take care of the luxuries and the necessities will take care of themselves."

Nakato - Atlanta, GA

Nakato perches just above the neighboring Woodfire Grill, its unassuming facade set back a few yards, like a suddenly tall kid slouching to blend in with his still-short friends. Diners can choose between Hibachi Grill seating or traditional tables, and there are a few seats by the sushi bar as well.
I'd long ago given up asking "What's fresh" at seafood restaurants, only to be reproached with: "Everything's fresh, ma'am," but Nakato highlights the freshest items on their sushi and sashimi menu, something I have never seen at any Japanese restaurant in America. I excitedly ordered several of the highlighted selections, including succulent Maguro tuna, the blander hamachi (Yellowtail), and some fish I'd never heard of, including shima aji (jack fish) and saury (a type of mackerel). I don't consider myself a fan of mackerel or other oily fish, but the saury was incredibly tender and aromatic, not redolent in the least. I also tried a house special oyster maki that was kind of interesting, which is to say not for the timid, and California rolls so fine and good they should have been reviewed by Ernest Hemingway instead of me. Ernest surely would have liked our waitress, a beautiful young kimono-clad woman who made pleasant conversation and checked on us frequently. Paul ordered a lunchbox-style meal with Beef Teriyaki and ate everything except the Edamame beans, which left more for me. There is a full bar with an extensive menu of sake, wine, beer, and cocktails. Desserts are surprisingly Western, but this is Atlanta after all. We polished off a "Tartufata Cake" which seemed more like a classic Napoleon and enjoyed a quiet but convivial atmosphere in the traditional dining room by a window overlooking a Japanese garden. Doggie Bags: 5 out of 5!

Tuscany - Lexington, VA

We had stumbled in here for lunch on a previous road trip, and were so pleased with the simple but fresh Italian cuisine that I routed our tour through Lexington and booked a hotel nearby so we could return for dinner. Yes, it's that hard to find good food on the road. However, dinner was a bit of a letdown. Caesar salad was heavy on the mayo, pasta and potatoes slightly undercooked, and the chicken marsala without any recognizable flavor. The framed articles that adorn the walls tell us that the place is owned by an eccentric world-class chef, Luciano D'Avanzo, who has cooked with and for the greats. My best guess is that it was such a slow night, the chefs were sent home and the skeleton crew that remained did their best to serve us and the two other couples present that night. Perhaps we'll try it again on our next trip through, but we may try a few other places first, or just adjust our routing to land in White Sulphur Springs, WV, home of the Greenbrier (see Tamarack). Doggie bags: 3 out of 5

Bonefish Grill - St. Petersburg, FL

It's hard to find a restaurant in Florida that isn't housed in a concrete mini-mall. Bonefish Grill is no exception to this rule, but once inside, you'll feel like you're in a "real" restaurant - and so you are. The chain's flagship restaurant in St. Pete is decorated on a human scale, not a massive one, with warm lighting over the tables and a cushion of darkness between them, giving diners a sense of privacy when ensconced in a booth. We arrived at 7 PM on a Tuesday night, and tables and booths were filled with lively young corporate types and a few families. Our host ordered so much food that the table started to look like a time-lapse film of cells dividing. Appetizers included Bing Bang Shrimp, which disappeared quickly. Seared Ahi tuna melted in the mouth. Crab cakes were tasty enough, though not sublime. Seafood is obviously the feature here, and most of the piscine entree offerings are prepared one of four ways. In spite of the variety of mix-and-match options on the menu, the preparation and presentation were exquisite. Even though I was so stuffed to the gills I risked being added to the menu, I managed to polish off most of my Flounder served "Virgin Mediterranean" style, a simple preparation of this fresh, tender, flaky....mmmmm...sorry! I got carried away for a minute. Paul ordered Chicken Marsala, part of a worldwide quest for the perfect version of the dish, a quest that unfortunately fell short at this particular location as the grilling created a rather dry product. The wine was excellent, the service efficient and inspiring, the drinks dangerous. Doggie Bags: 4 out of 5. Note: we ate at another Bonefish in Owings Mills, Maryland, which boasted a similar menu and excellent service, though the seafood was not quite on a par with the St. Pete location.

Indian Grill - St. Petersburg, FL

The standard Indian menu plus some interesting and tasty recommendations freshly prepared and served with a touch of audacity by the gregarious proprietor. Try saying THAT three times fast! You won't be able to, you'll be too busy eating the Chicken Do Piaza. Go! Doggie Bags: 4 out of 5.

La Teresita - 3248 W. Columbus Dr., Tampa, FL

Paul and I were tired, cross, and wet when we arrived at this downhome Cuban eatery during a storm, and Paul's malapropistically referring to it as "la Turista" added to my apprehension. However, there was nothing to fear. We enjoyed abundant portions of delicious, home-cooked food at the lowest prices in the entire Tampa Bay area. There is a sit-down restaurant on one side and a cafeteria with dining counters on the other. The restaurant side serves the same food as the cafeteria but with higher prices. The cafeteria is noisy, but it affords the casual diner some of the best people-watching in the state of Florida, which is saying something. Recommended: Roast Pork, Collard Green Soup, fried Plaintains, and the Ensalada, a simple green salad, not too cold, with DIY oil and vinegar available on the counter. Doggie Bags: 4.5 out of 5! Caveat: not a good Valentine's Day date location.

Smokin' Joe's - Darien, GA (exit 49 off I-95)

We passed through Darien a couple of years ago and had lunch here. At the time, an autographed picture of James Brown graced the counter. Apparently he had eaten there many times in the past. I have to admit it was the picture of the Godfather of Soul that brought us back to the large, wood-paneled restaurant. The smell of woodsmoke billowing from a chimney over the kitchen was also a good sign. I have a friend who is not only a professional bbq chef, but an artist with smoke and sauces as well. Out of loyalty to him I try to maintain a minimum standard when on the road that I won't eat in any 'Q joint where I can't see or smell smoke.
We ordered our food and looked for JB. His photo was gone, as were all the other photos and bric-a-brac that had covered the walls. In its place was a signed photograph of Nicholas Cage. It turns out his cousins just bought the place two weeks ago and are managing and cooking some mouth-watering, high quality BBQ. The ribs were meaty and tender, though not quite as falling-off-the bone as I'd like. Cole slaw was fresh and crispy, contrasting well with the richness of the ribs. Best of all, none of the food was oversalted. The entire staff was solicitous and friendly, and we'll be back next time for more of their homey southern hospitality. Doggie Bags: 4 out of 5

Marchand's Bar & Grill - St. Petersburg, FL

The Renaissance at the Vinoy is St. Pete's swankiest hotel. Also its pinkest. From the outside it looks like a stucco model made entirely of Hostess Sno-balls. We haven't stayed there (yet!) but we did stop by their restaurant for some breakfast and it was one of the best meals of the entire tour. Service was impeccable, orange juice was fresh if a little navel-ly, and we were seated in high-backed, comfortable chairs next to a tall window that looked out on the tree-lined drive. Paul had the Eggs Benedict, prepared in the local style over crab cakes with a citrus sabayon. I had one of the signature dishes, Lobster Hash, which consisted of delicious chunks of fresh claw meat over a lovely saute of julienned peppers and onions, all topped with two poached eggs. Dreamy. Doggie bags: 5 out of 5!

Tamarack - Beckley, WV

We had only been to Beckley once before, in a muddled attempt to find an elegant lunch that ended up with us glaring at each other across the table at a Captain D's. At the time, it seemed like the lesser of two evils as we steered away from a Pacific-themed grille with the portentous-sounding name of "Rimfire." In any case, I was determined to get it right the second time around.
Friends in Charleston told us about Tamarack, a highwayside tourism center perched above a rest area off of I-79. Before I get to the food, I have to recommend that anyone driving through West Virginia stop by Tamarack. It's part arts foundation, part craft gallery, part gift shop, part traveler's oasis, a unique cottage industry that benefits state tourism and is aided in turn by the state. A circular building houses regional crafts such as quilts, wood carvings, furniture, ceramics, and glassware, as well as locally produced comestibles like honey, pickles, preserves, and barbecue sauce. Resident artisans demonstrate their techniques at various locations throughout the complex, and lecture halls and theatres provide a setting for regularly scheduled films and concerts, and a conference center is available for private parties or business meetings.
Tamarack's food court is catered by the Greenbrier, whose home base is White Sulphur Springs on the Virginia border. This is a cafeteria in name and appearance only. The food is well-prepared, fresh, and flavorful. Green beans were actually green, a pork loin slightly tougher than hoped for but edible nevertheless, and pulled pork barbecue was tangy and not oversalted. We also enjoyed the roasted new potatoes, which were a tiny bit al dente, but I think this was intentional as the lunch hour had just begun and the potatoes would have time to finish cooking in the steam table. Service was friendly, something it's hard to take for granted coming from the frozen Northeast. Doggie bags: 4 out of 5.

The Bayou - 212 Morehead Plaza, Morehead, KY

A piece of modern political and cultural history tucked away in a mini-mall not far from the MSU campus. The owners were lifelong residents of Louisiana until, displaced by Hurricane Katrina, they came up to coal country and started an authentic Cajun restaurant with a homey menu of po'boys, jambalaya, gumbo, and other traditional New Orleans dishes. Food is made to order, so it takes a while but is well worth the wait. Louisiana beer and hazmat-laced, color-saturated sodas fill the fridge, and there's lots of clatter in the kitchen as the young chefs whip up each roux the way they learned to from their parents and grandparents. Doggie bags: 3 out of 5.

Culinary high point of the tour: first bite of lobster and poached eggs at Marchand's

Runner-up: wicked good sushi served by an incredibly cute waitress in a kimono at Nakato in Atlanta

Runner-down: Single-handedly (literally!) eating a large bag of Smartfood while driving, yet somehow ending up with both hands completely plastered with that quick-dry cement they refer to as "white cheddar." The popcorn is highly addictive, no doubt due to a proprietary blend of barely legal chemicals, but the gooey residue reminds me of those blob toys I used to get out of gumball machines at the supermarket as a child. Don't forget, kids, "non-toxic" doesn't mean you're supposed to eat it.

Low point: BBQ sandwich purchased from a gas station in Brentwood, Tennessee. This actually is toxic. And it made me cry. As I spit out the first bite of acrid mystery meat, I sobbed, "Is there anything in this state that isn't made entirely of SALT?"

(reviews coming soon):

Portofino - Lexington, KY

Dudley's - Lexington, KY

City's Cafe and Market - St. Petersburg, FL

Pearl's Saltwater Grille - Savannah, GA