January 27, 2006
Caught With a Case of the Crab (Road Diary Day 2)
1/26/06, Ashland, VA, 9:06 PM
A pretty mellow evening. Drove 244 miles, stopped off in Eastern Maryland for something to eat. "Something" in Maryland usually means crab cakes. Apparently the state is overrun with crustaceans from Crisfield to Cumberland. If we didn't kill hundreds of thousands of them every year we'd all be walking sideways and speaking Crabese now. Luckily, they're mighty tasty. Maryland crabmeat is much more flavorful than our New England crabmeat. We have Jonah crabs that swim around in the freezing waters off the Maine Coast, shivering and putting on sweaters and grouching about the electricity bill. They have no joy in life and consequently no flavor. They're mixed in with breadcrumbs at a ratio of 1:99 and the mixture is soaked with sherry and seasoned with thousand-year-old parsely, but to no avail. The resulting cakes have an anemic, baleful attitude that makes you long for the robustness of Cod.
More....
Chesapeake Bay crabs, on the other hand, scamper around in a Mardi Gras-like atmosphere under the frothy brine. They also have better shopping malls. They hang out at the malls and drink Bubble Tea and grow plump and sweet and succulent by their blissful harvest day. Paul and I followed a series of handmade signs down Route 301 that advertised "Great Food." In my experience, if you have to call it great, you're probably trying to divert your customers from some other aspect of your restaurant, such as "bad food." Still, we know how it is to be without representation and to have to toot your own horn a little, so we went to the little whistle-stop ice cream parlor and ordered - what else?- crab cake sandwiches. Even these sad, previously frozen oil-coated brillo pads tasted better than any crab cakes we've had in Boston. Why can't we get this back home? Is it protected by the state, like roubles in Russia? What happens to you if a cop stops your car just shy of the Pennsylvania line and asks you to open your trunk, and there's a case of cans you just bought from the Food Lion, labeled Maryland Lump Crabmeat? The cop is holding you against the side of your car, snapping handcuffs on your wrists as he reads you your Miranda rights, and there's a sign above you that says "America Starts Here" and you're just a few yards from America but you can't get there. And even if you could, what would it be worth without real crabcakes?
Posted by Annie at January 27, 2006 2:06 AMAnnnie,
After reading your day 2 road diary, it is clear to me that it was written soon after bottle number six of the wine Paul brought along hit the hotel room floor with a hollow thump and rolled under the bed. Just kidding, I am enjoying reading about your escapades. Just thought I'd let you know that, yes, your fans are reading your posts. Enjoy.
Marc Laflamme
Posted by: marc laflamme at January 27, 2006 9:52 PMAnnie
While you are in the Delmarva region, don't forget to try the other local delicacy: muskrat. If you are squeamish, think of it as "marsh rabbit". If you have a choice get it panned fried as opposed to deep fried.
You can occasionally get frozen carcasses. I have been told by people with a straight face that if parboiled they will be OK in your freezer for 6 months before they start tasting "funny". If you can imagine freezer-burned muskrat tasting strange.
I have been told that the best wine with muskrat is gewurtiziminer. (I am sure I have misspelled same). It spiciness enhances the robust musky flavor. (Note: muskrat does not taste like chicken) Enjoy!
Posted by: greg at January 30, 2006 4:21 PMAnnie,
Ashland, VA?!?.....did you stop by the ashland coffee and tea company? One of my favorite places to hear great music.....Just saw Avett Brothers there, austin lounge lizards, BR549 and Adrian Young is coming soon....the best for me though was Cephas and Wiggins.....magic...John Cephas lives up the road in Bolling Green...what gentlemen and talents.
This would be a great place for you guys to play...very intimate setting and crowds are always so responsive...they tend toward roots music/blue grass but also love the blues there....
Glad you finally have made a southern tour...been trying to see you in person since I heard you play on Prairie Home Companion (1997?--played Sweet Tooth as I recall)but you folks never seem to get out of the boston area...too far for me
plan to see you two at merlefest in april what a great event---hoping to hear "Looking Good"; "It ain't right" and "Black-eyed Blues" (you kinda sound like Maria Muldar on that one--don't think there is a weak song on that album)and would love to see you guys on stage with Doc Watson
...enjoy the tour and keep the diary rolling...I hear Paul can get pretty ornery and rowdy---is that true?
Nick Lape
Posted by: Nick Lape at January 31, 2006 3:32 AMYes, as a matter of fact, we did stop by Ashland Coffee & Tea, where David Olney was playing with a guitar accompaniment. He sang some very good songs he had written and seemed like a nice guy to boot. Not that he deserves to be booted.
Please come up and say hello at MerleFest. I don't know if they'll let us play any electric stuff. Apparently there are rules about such things.
I don't know where Paul gets this reputation as being ornery. He is as nice as a steak and kidney pie.
10 - Restaurant Reviews
2 - Recommended Listening
4 - John Sebastian
5 - Special Offer
6 - Harmonica Q&A
7 - News
8 - Road Diary
9 - Midnight Ramblings
